Sunday 14 April 2024

Mikro Horio

We woke to the sound of the village church bell this morning. It's Sunday so no bus service today and we had a hike planned.


We left the village at sea level and headed for the hills. We were following goat tracks up to a deserted mountain village. With suitable hats, sunscreen and water we were off.


The wild cyclamen and Iris plants were so pretty in the places there was shade. We passed goats resting in the shade in caves, they're not mad enough to be out in the mid day sun. 


After climbing for a while we came to what were clearly dry-walled fields. Nothing but wild wheat and poppies .....these would have been critical wheats fields when the village was functioning.
We knew we were getting close when we passed an old water cistern that would have helped irrigate the wheatfields.


It's a strange phenomenon, a totally abandoned village with streets, churches, flour mills and grinding stones....all left to nature.


After WW2 the village was gradually abandoned and most of the inhabitants moved down to Livadia.



Local legend is that the young ones made for Australia or USA and the elderly moved to the port taking the windows and roof tiles with them to start again.



We were the only ones there, just us and the goats that have claimed the village as their own. We saw goats on balconies, one even popping his out of a house fireplace to see what was disturbing his siesta, amazing


It felt quite eerie wandering the little streets and see family names painted on some homes as a reminder they are still wanted.


 There were  over 750 residents until the wells ran dry and life probably was just too hard. 


The only thing that survives is the beautiful whitewashed church that dominates the village overlooking the valley and the sea
.


The little cemetery of the Assumption of Virgin Mary Church has been preserved and family graves look out to sea. Villagers still tend the cemetary and on feast days there are special services.


Quite by chance we found the Chapel of Christ the Saviour from 1430. This is protected by the Culture Ministry and I had heard the key was under a rock, sure enough we were in luck.



The frescos are yet to be restored and are spectacular in the half light. It's a tiny chapel with no light and you have to bend double to enter, but what a treat, truely a special experience.



We thought we saw the Last Supper, the Three Wise Kings and the Adoration depicted.



Someone must check in on them regularly as it's too special to be left too long unattended.


After eating fresh oranges and taking more water on board, as we sat on some previous inhabitants doorstep,  we made our way back down the mountain goat tracks to Livadia. A fantastic experience in Mikro Horio, it was  truely special. 


Cat of the day - these two hang out at the port and are spoiled by all the visitors, they have it sussed! 




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