Let's Go: Menalon Trail

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

Today we started out on our week long hike through the alpine villages of the Peloponesse, the Menalon Way.

The Menalon Trail is approximately 75km long and passes through little villages. It climbs down through the Lousios River gorge, traverses the western slopes of Mt Menalon and along the Gortynian mountain foothills. There are eight stages that follow ancient shepherd tracks and pathways that serve old monastery's carved into the hillside. 

After leaving our luggage in storage at the Tripoli bus station we took a little 20 seater bus  up into the mountains. There were three locals, us and one other hiker from the Netherlands. The little village bus also doubled as the newspaper delivery run.

The bus only went as far as the village of Demitsana (we walk there on the second day)

We had two options, take a taxi to Stemnista and be there in about 10mins or walk the road the taxi would take. We didn't want to walk the actual  trail path (5hrs) to Stemnista in reverse as we knew we'd be walking that tomorrow in the correctly trail-marked direction. So after coffee on the edge of the incredible Lousios river gorge we saddled up the backpacks and hit the road  to the village of Stemnista. 

Approx 2.5hrs walking in beautiful spring sunshine, quiet alpine road with stunning views. We heard the goat bells before we came across a roaming herd and we saw many houses carved into the steep cliff sides.

We had a great first day and enjoyed a late lunch in the Stemnista village square. 

Stemnista is as cute as a button. Sleepy quiet village square with lots of cats begging for a piece of your lunch. 

You guessed it Greek salad and lemon chicken which the kitty cats did get a little nibble of 😁.

After a relaxing lunch we had a final 12min walk, uphill😁 to our bed for the night. Great first day 👍🏃👌

Gartagani Guest House, Stemnista, Peloponesse 

Kalimera! Tripoli Peloponesse

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

22 April 2026 Flight 02:00am Hanoi - Dohar, 3.5 hrs transit, Dohar - Athens.

We feel lucky to have flown through Dohar during the ceasefire. Doha airport was busy and flights were heading in all directions. Only one area, the outdoor garden area, was closed due to drone target risk. Stayed two nights in an apartment near Athens airport to shower and sleep and get through initial jet lag. 

24 April 2026

We left Athens by bus to Tripoli. We  will stay three nights in order to catch the local village bus, that only runs on a Monday, Thursday or Friday, to Stemnista to walk the Menalon Trail....more on that later.  Bus stations the world over are a keen study of mankind. All walks of life, many trying their luck begging/ trying to sell you crappy stuff, there are grotty toilets and in general everything is in need of a good pressure wash, especially around the waiting area seats. Only nice bus station I can recall was Vigo, Spain. One elderly gent waiting in the same area as us for his bus, had what looked like a post surgery  leg brace on and he was being pestered by a professional beggar for money. They wouldn't leave him be so we went and asked him if he was OK as he was very vulnerable - he couldn't run away from her that's for sure. We  saw the pest off. In the time we were waiting for our bus she must have done at least 50 circuits of the station but she steered clear of us after that. There was definitely a gang working the station and I felt sorry for her in a way. It  gets me that the gang masters send the woman out to do the work and sit back and count the takings. Rant over 😏 and I wasn't the least bit  tempted by the Sophia Loren big sunglasses circa 1970 😎

The bus took about  three hours and we passed over the Corinth Canel which was pretty cool.

Always wanted to see this so it was great it was enroute. The road kept gradually climbing up these steep passes, we could even see snow 😬on some of the ranges. Such a change in landscape from lush jungle foliage of Vietnam to dry, rocky mountains and olive trees and it's always lovely seeing the red poppy flowers in the fields.

Tripoli was established in the beginning of 14th century and until the end of 19th century it was called Tripolitsa.  Many different invaders such as Venetians and Turks left their marks on the city. 

One piece of history I read was during the Greek Independence uprising over 3000 Greek men were slaughtered outside the town gates by the Albanian mercenaries protecting the Ottoman occupation. 

The beautiful central park has a collenade of busts so those who helped secure Greek independence will never be forgotten.

The city now serves as the municipal function for the wider area with agriculture, industrial and horticulture service centers. Population about 44,000.

It is wonderful to see blue sky again and spring is in the air.

 After Vietnam,  the air was crisp and clear as we sat outside St Basil's cathedral, no more humidity and smog. 

The temps are a lot cooler at this altitude but perfect for our hike starting in a few days.

We love being back in Europe.  We wandered about last night in the squares and plaza where all the locals tend to hang out, chat, play soccer with their kids.... intergenerational and no stress or agro.  There are so many beautiful public spaces and  gardens and a lot of fabulous public sculpture.

The only downside for us is the locals tend to eat between 8.30 and 10pm ....which is hopeless for us. Not to be daunted were old dogs at this lark and we'll swing into having a main meal at lunch. Wandering off a side street from the main square we came across a gorgeous wee cafe, Senor....lunch was divine!

It's bread and water for dinner 😁. We tend to start walking early each day which means early to bed 😁.

Many of the really  old historic buildings are falling into ruin which is a shame. Too expensive to keep up and many young people leave here for the big smoke of Athens where work attracts better pay.  The churches seem to be well kept up 👍👌

Apartment :

Tripoli Apartment - Διαμέρισμα 65 τμ στην καρδιά της πόλης

Athens Demi's Apartment near the airport, Atremedia

Goodnight Vietnam

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

21 April 2026

It's goodnight Vietnam, til next time.

We have loved all our Vietnam adventures. From the crazy chaos of Hanoi Old Town, to Tam Coc and the quiet rice fields, rivers and mountains, to Da Nang and the chilled out beach vibe, the glorious limestone Karsts in Lan Ha Bay and we'll never forget gorgeous historic 'chocolate box' Hoi An.

We've probably only scratched the surface in terms of history and cultural exchange, still so much more to discover but that will have to be next time. The food.....it's been amazing 😍 

Quick tourist observations, no one orchestrates the traffic....it just seems to flow smoothly. I'm sure there are mishaps but this kind of 'free for all' would never work in NZ, it would be fisticuffs and someone would end up limping away. I watched a little three year old run out from the cafe, climb up onto the back of a scooter and off he went with his dad. From a young age the kids see how the system works safely, the 'tooting for awareness /I'm coming past you' .....no harsh words or punch ups....maybe it's just they have to make it work due to sheer volume of traffic. 

Crossing the road goes take some getting used to, but they do weave around you and they don't stop for pedestrian crossings, they go around you.

Young people here must complete two years compulsory military service and you don't get out of it if you go to Uni, they give you until you are aged 27yrs to get your service completed.

There is high patriotism on display....they love their flag AND it's everywhere. Have to say as flag design goes, it's a goodie.  

There appears to be high levels of respect for public amenities, hardly any graffiti and the intergenerational family unit is strong. Retirement age is 57yrs for women and 60 for men but with a huge aging population the government is looking at options to extend this age.  Life can be tough, I saw many elderly working on construction sites, wheeling barrows of bricks, plastering and many appear to sleep at the worksite in very humble conditions.

We flew with Vietnam Airlines and they have been great (apart from a 60yr age restriction on sitting in Exit rows....only airline in the world that we have found this. We are a lot stronger and capable than some of the tiny folks sitting in our seats 😁😬😁). We used a local driver in Tam Coc and Da Nang and they were great, excellent drivers and great at sharing local info.

Tourism is booming. Russia, India, Taiwan and Korea represent the highest numbers, increased 40% post Covid. We saw Russian restaurants.  The developers are responding, high rise resort  construction everywhere. I wonder what it will be like in five years time? We saw a fair few Aussie's and Kiwis too.

Medical & Dental tourism is taking off. We had our teeth cleaned and polished in a highly professional dental clinic, 45 mins, lovely hygienist ( she's real, not a model, I had teeth envy😁) and it cost equivalent NZ$11.00. In NZ that would be around $250.00. If I need full on dental work I'm coming back here. We also had a couple of massages here - my back, neck and shoulders never felt so good. Again fully trained masseuse, immaculate clinic, beautiful aromatherapy oils, hot stones and who knew such little hands could be so Strong - best therapeutic massage ever, 60 mins equivalent NZ$16.00!

Did I mention the coffee here? Along with being a world leader in Robusta coffee bean production the coffee culture here is off the charts. New favourite is Lychee Rose iced tea.

Check out the egg coffee in the pic below - white foam, vanilla egg whisked for the centre 👌👌

So many different types of hot and cold coffee, egg coffee, salted coffee, coconut coffee...you get the idea. 

The cafe are uber cool and a hit with the Instagram crowd. 

We loved the vibe too although probably we're not quite the young groover demographic they normally attract 😁

We'll miss the food. We'll miss the little temple shrines dotted around the neighbourhood and the people...so lovely, kind and caring. 

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