Vytina

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

Zyvgosti was a one horse town. As we were packing up to hit the trail today we heard an old truck coming up the hillside. You could hear it for miles as it was playing loud Greek music to let all those in the area know the vegetable man was coming. The old truck was full of veg,  herbs, strawberries...so fresh!

The little taverna where we stayed in attached rooms also acts as a shop for the village and they bought a good amount of supplies off the back of the vege truck.

If Zyvgosti was a one horse town, Elati was a no horse town. We didn't see anyone, the one taverna was shut and no coffee spot to be seen. Nevermind we had a beautiful walk ahead of us. 

We were walking along the road at one stage and the local police stopped and warned us of falling rocks. Long story short they gave us a lift a short way down  the road. We must have looked a sight - two police in front and three hikers and packs sardined into the back seat. They were lovely 😍.

It has been lovely to share the trail these last few days with Talia. 

Elati to Vytina was an idyllic 9ks that followed a stream most of the way. Occasionally we'd pass old stone ruins. It was absolutely stunning and magical with a soft dirt /forrest path and trees covered in moss...you could almost imagine wood nymphs coming down to the water... beautiful.

We followed the Milanon river and passed three abandoned watermills.

We passed a very grand looking monastery on the other side of the river and it looked so peaceful in that beautiful setting.

The track crossed several small creeks that brought ice melt down to the river. You really had to watch your step. 

The sound of the river, the beautiful birds and butterflies.... magical.

We  started to climb back up and left the river. We left behind the moss and gentle forest floor and climbed up the side of the valley on a track carved into the rock and loose shale. It was different again but equally stunning. The folks that cut these paths way back in the early days have left behind a wonderland for us to enjoy.

The foliage changed as we climbed up towards to hilltop village of Vytina.

Vytina is another chocolate box alpine village and it's noted for it's old stone buildings. In the winter it's full of skiers and you can take sleigh rides....did I mention it's a magical place 😁

The climate creates the best conditions for harvesting walnuts, fresh herbs and spices. There are plenty of chic shops to tempt you but as we are like snails and carrying our lives on our back we just enjoyed window shopping.

All along the trail we have admired the almond trees and wild spring flowers in blossom. No surprises then that this area is famous for its natural honey.

After a day of hiking it's always good to find a nice place to eat. We stepped off the main square and found an amazing restaurant. 

The beer and honey braised pork was the biggest piece of roast pork I've ever been served. It was delicious! The local cheese and rocket salad was divine too as was the moussaka.

It is a long weekend here in Greece for May Day so it was tricky to book a place to stay for just one  night. We were thankful we'd booked ages ago from NZ as there were not many options. We're staying in very humble accommodations circa 1970's ( but not humble pricing NZ$170 😬)but it does what it says  on the tin..hot shower, flushing toilet 😁 although NO toilet paper down the pipes and it has a radiator to heat the room and dry our washed hiking clothes 😁.

The bell towet is virtually outside our door and the bell strikes every half hour 😬😁

Not sure who this sculpture represents but check out that moustache! I love the public sculpture in Europe.

Elati

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

We had a shorter day today to give our muscles time to recover from yesterday. Today while shorter, was pretty much uphill to Zygovisti, the highest village on the Menalon Trail. 

It wasn't long before  we could look down on Demitsana. It's a gorgeous little village. 

We were up on the shepherd tracks and the sheep weren't bothered in the least by us.

You had to keep your eyes peeled for the way markers, this one was on a tree in a beautiful almond orchard. The blossoms were so beautiful. 

We made it to Zyvgovisti for lunch. Luckily the little place we are staying at is more or less on the trail and doubles as a taverna. Lunch and then resting and a walk around the village. 

Zyvgosti is a tiny village. On our walk about we saw six people and probably as many cats. There is a spectacular marble monument commemorating the Greek Independence fighters from the area.  This area is famous for producing gunpowder that eventually helped overthrow the Ottoman Empire in the early 1800's. 

Another beautiful day in nature.

Αγνάντιο room's Zyvgoisti

 

Stemnista to Demitsana

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via  a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

28 April 2026

We had a huge breakfast at our little Gartagani Guest House in Stemnista, little did I know how important that huge brekky was until later in the day. The sun was shining, we filled our water bottles up and bought some Spanakopita pastry to have on the trail for lunch.

We were walking with a lovely lady, Thalia, who is taking pretty much the same trail stages as us. Let's go!

The hike is down a steep, beautiful gorge and back up again. It has more than 3000 feet of climbing across the 12.5ks. We started at the top of the gorge and the path was lined with spring wild flowers, so pretty 

It was tough going on your knees on the way down but slowly does it and careful foot placement. 🏃 The first monastery we came to, pictured above, was closed but it had a fantastic view point to look up the gorge all the way to Demitsana village perched on a hilltop. It looked a very long way!

From here we could see our next stop, the Old Philosopher monastery carved into the cliff face. Zoom into the pic below and you can see it hugging the side of the gorge. 

The mind boggles at how they built these beautiful places in such a challenging environment. As we made our way down to the Monastery of Aghios Ioannis Prodomos we came across mules with neck bells , so I imagine the monks use the mules to pack in and out supplies. 

The Prodomus monastery is incredible. It is tucked right into the cliff face.

We were able to fill up our water bottles here and also go inside, no pictures allowed. The monks had fresh Greek coffee and Turkish delight they had made for visitors. One older monk all clad in black with a big silver beard gave me a blessing as I left. I thought of him about four hours later on the gruelling ascent up to Dimitsana. What a place, very spiritual, quiet and so isolated. 

We kept going down, down,down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. It was roaring with the spring snow melt. Very beautiful. 

A small section of the track was washed out by a landslide so you had to use ropes to pull yourself up. Yikes! 

The next stop was the final monastery of the day and it was beautiful, the monastery of the New Philosopher.

 We'd been climbing back up the gorge and our legs were getting tired so we were thankful of this haven of rest.

The monk made us Greek coffee that was so strong you could stand a duck on it, it was greatly appreciated 😄also a small sweet pudding that looked to be made of sago and cardamon. He then gave us some home made Turkish delight as we left. He lives alone there with his cat. 

The sign markers leaving here were terrible, we actually did a small circuit of the monastery to start again on the correct path. With already tired legs I was trying to think positive 😬.There was only one way to Dimitsana and that was just keep putting one foot in front of the other ..uphill. We crossed the river again and then up we went.

I have to say it was tough going. One part was through rushing spring melt streams with very slippery rocks so you really had to watch your footing.

A few hazards along the track just to keep you on your toes and add a spot of climbing challenge to the trail😁.

After a long day of walking the last stretch always feels tough and it seems to take forever.  We couldn't find the sign marker for the final 30 mins into the actual village of Demitsana so we walked the road. The road took us straight to our accommodation for the night and with tired legs it felt safer and not slippery 😁.

Shower and rest and then early dinner and bed. Amazing day, huge uphill effort, incredible scenery, beautiful wild butterflies and spring beauty everywhere  in this special part of the Peloponesse.

Ortansia Rooms -Demitsana