From Tripoli to Kalamata

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in).

After finishing the terrific Menalon Trail we had May 4th,5th,6th in Tripoli - time to get the laundry done, a few holiday admin tasks and some R&R to give our calf muscles a well deserved break.  

We had a fantastic apartment with an equally fantastic shower - if you dropped the soap you had no problem picking it up😁. Some of the Greek bathrooms have the tiniest showers -  so tiny you're lucky if you can raise your elbows to wash your hair🙄.

Just outside our apartment was a church with a bell tower and it was actually quite pleasant to hear church bells ringing. On the last morning the bells had a special ring which we think meant the local market was on. 

The produce was beautiful and fresh - grapevine leaves to make dolmades, fresh fish, fresh herbs, artichokes, local honey and vinegars, old fashioned potatoes straight from the garden....not a pre-packaged plastic bag of potatoes in sight. 

Thursday 7th May we got the trusty KTLM bus to Kalamata. Fantastic comfy bus and great roads. We left the high altitude for the coast. As we came down into the valley you could see  the Kalamata olive orchards....as far as the eye could see. Surprisingly lush and green 👌

Kalamata has a population of 58,000 and felt like the big smoke after all the little mountain villages. It has H&M and Zara stores....so we certainly had left the quiet villages behind. There's an old town, new town and a port/marina. The old town has some fantastic street murals. 

The monuments and statuary to the history of the area is visible throughout the town.

Our first day proper in Kalamata was overcast so perfect for walking and exploring, not too hot.

 The old town has some wonderful old neo- classical architecture but much of it is in bad shape. You can tell it will be stunning once all restored.

It's a very walkable town and we walked back to the port/marina area where we decided to stay. We passed through the train park which was the original Kalamata stream train station and now serves as a green space for all the apartments close by. 

So glad we decided to stay at the Marina.

 It's only 20 mins walk from the old town but so restful and there's just something about being by the ocean.

The water is a gorgeous deep blue. The Port Authority is in a gorgeous old building on the quey with two Australian bottle brush trees out front 👌. 

There's still a working fishing fleet alongside the yachtie crowd and day cruisers.

When you're at the seaside it would be rude not to try the fresh seafood. We're working our way through the options. Shrimp, radichio Kalamata bruschetta 👌

Octopus on fava bean mash with lemon infused Kalamata olive oil.

Nothing fancy, just grilled anchovies and grilled octopus - sublime!

The marina and port cats are a bit of a sorry looking lot. They appear to work as a pack and for the first time ever I saw a bunch of cats working the marina tables as a team. I did spy some water bowls and cat kibble bowls further along the quey so some good person looks out for them. They have a high survival instinct - watched one hunt a skink sunning itself before it's demise.

I figured out why there were so many jet fighters buzzing about the mountains here. Kalamata has a Military international flight training center for advanced pilot training on M- 346 silver hawk  jets.  We saw them most days when we were high up in the mountain passes. Boy are they fast, loud and impressive. Germany and Croatia do their advanced pilot training here at allegedly €2.4m per pilot😯 as part of a NATO agreement (according to Google). Great income earner for Kalamata region. 

Three more days here in sunny Kalamata by the sea, can't complain 😁 😎.

Tripoli -Margarite Apartments

Kalamata - Ethereal Luxury Apartments 

Lagkadia

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in).

Our last day on the Menalon Trail. The forecast was for a high of 9°C and a low of -2°C and precipitation around 2pm. No wind though so we didn't have the wind chill factor like yesterday 🥶🥶🥶.

The lovely hostess at our hotel made us a gorgeous breakfast and sent us on our way with a package of her home made apple strudel. So kind and the best place on the trail! We set off and the sun was out and the sky was blue 👍. Awesome way to start the last day.

As we were on the climb out of Valtesiniko village I thought I heard someone calling my name and I looked back down the trail to see Talia! We had walked together for about three days. We actually started the trail together so it was nice to go full circle and finish the trail together. Talia has been hiking on her own, she's a gutsy lady.

 

We had to follow the green trail markers today and God bless the good folks that marked this section, it was really clear.

This last section of the Menalon Trail felt like a bit of every stage of the trail rolled into one, hard slog up hillsides, some farmers meadow's with spring flowers, forest paths soft underfoot, small stream crossings, boulder hopping, almond orchards, quarry remains, shale and rock challenges and magnificent views. We could see why it was so cold, check out the snow in the pic below. 

One small section had ropes for safety and I was glad of them, but it was pretty easy.

The views, when you caught your breath, were spectacular. 

I loved passing little monks and shepherds shelters. You could see how useful they would be in bad weather.

When we finally hauled our tired selves up the last ridge and we could see the final village of Lagkadia we had a "high five" moment! It was still at least an hour descent, but nice nonetheless to see it in view as the weather was starting to change.

This is where the green trail markers let us down, there was a big gap and  it was a bit confusing. The path  started to take you away from the village so after about a 10 minute backtrack on a sheep track we starting winding our way down and all was well. 

We passed an old waterwheel that used to power the village. It was steep going, nothing like one last challenge to close out the trail.

We could see the main village road was blocked by landslides....no cars in or out that road😲. We decided we'd work out our exit strategy after lunch, we needed rest and good food beside a fire. 

We found a great restaurant on the side of the canyon, the fire was on and our final lunch together was just perfect , chef's kiss👌. Check out the baklava.

 

Lagkadia has some groovy shops and a couple of good taverna. 

The kitty cats on this doorstep could sense the weather changing, clever creatures.

View out our hotel window after lunch and showers. Glad we finished the trail the time we did. Tomorrow, with no bus able to get to the village,  our hotel has arranged for a taxi to take us via a back road to a bus stop about 30 minutes away and we hope to get a bus to Tripoli - all part of the adventure!

Menalon Trail you have been fantastic. Challenging, beautiful, unique, quiet and unspoiled. It reminded us of the Camino Santiago back in the early days. It may gain in popularity but you really have to want to come to this special area, Arcadia in the Peloponesse. The monasteries are stunning, the food is divine - fresh, wholesome and good size portions for hiking. The locals have been lovely. The history of each village unique and fascinating. We only met six other hikers but they were good folks,  equally in awe of this adventure. We got a lift from the local police too ...a real adventure all round💗

Now we can give our calves a few days rest and recovery 😁 before......watch this space xx 💗

Lagkadia Four Seasons Hotel

Valetsiniko

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in),

Very cold today with a wind chill factor to the max!🥶. We decided to have a rest day. We  took a taxi 25 mins to our next stopping point on the trail. It would have taken us about 5hrs walking over several  hills but we decided to give our calves a break after five days of hill climbing.

Valtesiniko is perched on the side of a hill. The central square had a small food market, a coffee shop and a few taverna/restaurants.  It is known as the village of woodcarvers and there is a highly famed wood carving school there. We heard there was an old monastery 3k out of town that was pretty incredible. So on a rest day....we went for a walk 😄🏃.

We passed through a small farm yard to get to the monastery. 

The doggies could have licked you to death if you let them  and the goats were not in the least bothered.

The  turkey on the other hand put on a very good 'guard dog'  performance.

The old monastery, 1550,  was tucked into the side of the Kapsall Gorge. It was built inside a cave in the rock and is dedicated to St Nikolas of the Ascencion.

 

What an amazing place. So peaceful and quiet and beautifully cared for. 

The local taverna served amazing food and the staff were so lovely. You can imagine this little village is jumping in ski season.

We  hit the jackpot with our bed for the night. Lovely warm rooms and we were welcomed with coffee and mumma's home made apple strudel, delicious. Another most excellent factor was we could control the heating in our room....very important in the cold snap......8°C and low of 2°C overnight .(Same day last year was high 26°C and down to 9°C at night).

Petra & Elato Art Hotel, Valtesiniko, Peloponesse