Valetsiniko

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in),

Very cold today with a wind chill factor to the max!🥶. We decided to have a rest day. We  took a taxi 25 mins to our next stopping point on the trail. It would have taken us about 5hrs walking over several  hills but we decided to give our calves a break after five days of hill climbing.

Valtesiniko is perched on the side of a hill. The central square had a small food market, a coffee shop and a few taverna/restaurants.  It is known as the village of woodcarvers and there is a highly famed wood carving school there. We heard there was an old monastery 3k out of town that was pretty incredible. So on a rest day....we went for a walk 😄🏃.

We passed through a small farm yard to get to the monastery. 

The doggies could have licked you to death if you let them  and the goats were not in the least bothered.

The  turkey on the other hand put on a very good 'guard dog'  performance.

The old monastery, 1550,  was tucked into the side of the Kapsall Gorge. It was built inside a cave in the rock and is dedicated to St Nikolas of the Ascencion.

 

What an amazing place. So peaceful and quiet and beautifully cared for. 

The local taverna served amazing food and the staff were so lovely. You can imagine this little village is jumping in ski season.

We  hit the jackpot with our bed for the night. Lovely warm rooms and we were welcomed with coffee and mumma's home made apple strudel, delicious. Another most excellent factor was we could control the heating in our room....very important in the cold snap......8°C and low of 2°C overnight .(Same day last year was high 26°C and down to 9°C at night).

Petra & Elato Art Hotel, Valtesiniko, Peloponesse 

Nymphasia

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

Today was our first day of grey skies and Alpine temps. Until now we've been walking in brilliant sunshine, blue skies and about 18°-20°C - perfect walking weather.

We didn't have any rain but it was much cooler and when you stopped moving you really felt it. It looks cold for the next few days but we have all the gear to keep us warm and dry. 

Our route today was down the Mylaontas Gorge and back up to the small village of Nymphasia. We set out and had to look for green way markers. The start of the path showed both green and yellow....a bit confusing 🧐. We wound our way down to the Mylaontas river and stopped on a gorgeous ancient bridge, Zaziou bridge. Not the bridge we needed to be at unfortunately 😬. Uh oh!

We realised we should be crossing the Tzavarena bridge so it was back up to the trail start to recheck the markers. Luckily we made good time going back up, only took 15 mins!

The path was shale and rock so you had to watch every step. At this stage we saw a goatherd on a far off ridge and you could hear the shepherd playing a flute or a pipe, think pan pipes. I tried to spot the shepherd but no luck.

We made it to the correct bridge -  single span stunning Tzavarena Ottoman bridge, built circa 1860's. We could see why the villages around all had stone houses, there's plenty of rock in those mountains! The path alongside the river was soft underfoot and a relief from the rock. Our feet are holding up well, just a few small blisters but not causing any problems.

Back up into the mountains to get to the village was a steep slog but the end was in sight. We were lucky that while cool we didn't get the forecast  rain showers. I had Yazz on loop in my head... "the only way is up ... baby you and me 🎙️🎹"😁

Every so often you'd spot a little shepherd hut or Hermitage miles from anything. The little building in the pic above is one of many we saw.

We did see one small grass snake and every so often we'd pass little votives with candles and pictures of saints inside.

As we walked into Nymphasia we saw a beautiful wild meadow, stunning.

 

The next stunning sight was an open taverna....serving food! The only one in the little village open, so we stopped of course 😁.

Great salad, mushroom soup and lamb chops..it was fantastic. 

Then the final walk (26 mins!!) from the village to our accommodation for the night and hot showers to warm up. 

We were pleased to see we had the controls for the central heating in our room so we could ensure the stone building stayed warm with the overnight low temps forecast. The previous two places we stayed the thermostat controls were with the owners and went off during the night 😲😬.

Agropoli Apartments, Nymphasia 

Vytina

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

Zyvgosti was a one horse town. As we were packing up to hit the trail today we heard an old truck coming up the hillside. You could hear it for miles as it was playing loud Greek music to let all those in the area know the vegetable man was coming. The old truck was full of veg,  herbs, strawberries...so fresh!

The little taverna where we stayed in attached rooms also acts as a shop for the village and they bought a good amount of supplies off the back of the vege truck.

If Zyvgosti was a one horse town, Elati was a no horse town. We didn't see anyone, the one taverna was shut and no coffee spot to be seen. Nevermind we had a beautiful walk ahead of us. 

We were walking along the road at one stage and the local police stopped and warned us of falling rocks. Long story short they gave us a lift a short way down  the road. We must have looked a sight - two police in front and three hikers and packs sardined into the back seat. They were lovely 😍.

It has been lovely to share the trail these last few days with Talia. 

Elati to Vytina was an idyllic 9ks that followed a stream most of the way. Occasionally we'd pass old stone ruins. It was absolutely stunning and magical with a soft dirt /forrest path and trees covered in moss...you could almost imagine wood nymphs coming down to the water... beautiful.

We followed the Milanon river and passed three abandoned watermills.

We passed a very grand looking monastery on the other side of the river and it looked so peaceful in that beautiful setting.

The track crossed several small creeks that brought ice melt down to the river. You really had to watch your step. 

The sound of the river, the beautiful birds and butterflies.... magical.

We  started to climb back up and left the river. We left behind the moss and gentle forest floor and climbed up the side of the valley on a track carved into the rock and loose shale. It was different again but equally stunning. The folks that cut these paths way back in the early days have left behind a wonderland for us to enjoy.

The foliage changed as we climbed up towards to hilltop village of Vytina.

Vytina is another chocolate box alpine village and it's noted for it's old stone buildings. In the winter it's full of skiers and you can take sleigh rides....did I mention it's a magical place 😁

The climate creates the best conditions for harvesting walnuts, fresh herbs and spices. There are plenty of chic shops to tempt you but as we are like snails and carrying our lives on our back we just enjoyed window shopping.

All along the trail we have admired the almond trees and wild spring flowers in blossom. No surprises then that this area is famous for its natural honey.

After a day of hiking it's always good to find a nice place to eat. We stepped off the main square and found an amazing restaurant. 

The beer and honey braised pork was the biggest piece of roast pork I've ever been served. It was delicious! The local cheese and rocket salad was divine too as was the moussaka.

It is a long weekend here in Greece for May Day so it was tricky to book a place to stay for just one  night. We were thankful we'd booked ages ago from NZ as there were not many options. We're staying in very humble accommodations circa 1970's ( but not humble pricing NZ$170 😬)but it does what it says  on the tin..hot shower, flushing toilet 😁 although NO toilet paper down the pipes and it has a radiator to heat the room and dry our washed hiking clothes 😁.

The bell towet is virtually outside our door and the bell strikes every half hour 😬😁

Not sure who this sculpture represents but check out that moustache! I love the public sculpture in Europe.

Elati

 (Usual waiver applies to grammar, typos, spelling as I'm posting via a small phone screen on the hoof 🤭, click on the pics to zoom in)

We had a shorter day today to give our muscles time to recover from yesterday. Today while shorter, was pretty much uphill to Zygovisti, the highest village on the Menalon Trail. 

It wasn't long before  we could look down on Demitsana. It's a gorgeous little village. 

We were up on the shepherd tracks and the sheep weren't bothered in the least by us.

You had to keep your eyes peeled for the way markers, this one was on a tree in a beautiful almond orchard. The blossoms were so beautiful. 

We made it to Zyvgovisti for lunch. Luckily the little place we are staying at is more or less on the trail and doubles as a taverna. Lunch and then resting and a walk around the village. 

Zyvgosti is a tiny village. On our walk about we saw six people and probably as many cats. There is a spectacular marble monument commemorating the Greek Independence fighters from the area.  This area is famous for producing gunpowder that eventually helped overthrow the Ottoman Empire in the early 1800's. 

Another beautiful day in nature.

Αγνάντιο room's Zyvgoisti