Saturday 11 May 2024

Viana do Castelo 10- 12 May

Viana's a charmer! Last time we were here we had walked for hours in the rain and as we crossed the famous two level historic Eiffel bridge all we could think of was getting  our shoes off and hot showers. What a difference a sunny day makes! As we came  into town we noticed the spectacular Scared Heart of Jesus temple high up on a hill on the edge of the town.  We didn't even see this from a distance last time.

With the sun out there was exploring to be done.  As we wandered into town through quiet residential streets we found those gorgeous exterior house tiles in abundance, houses looked like doll house creations, only life size.

After dropping our packs we set off for that temple on the hill and rather than climb 700+ steps we opted for the funnicula.

Elevador de Santa Luzia takes you up to the  Temple of Santa  Luzia. It's the longest and steepest funicular in Portugal and totally worth whatever we paid in euro for the 7 minute ride. The ticket seller was all brusque and I think totally didn't give me the correct change but hey ho, all part of the adventure. I did notice at the top funnicula station the return the price was clearly marked so no fudging it. I did try to catch the ticket seller at the lower station on our return but he wouldn't meet my eye....hmmm.

More than three centuries ago there was a humble chapel overlooking the town. Now a remarkable granite temple sits proudly stop the hill with spectacular views. 


You could see for miles from that elevation, down to the river and the double deck Eiffel bridge and further  down the Portuguese coast from where we had been walking for several days. Time for a look inside the temple.


Spectacular double domes and rose windows but as a newer church, just a few hundred years old, it was surprisingly simple inside. 


So glad we decided to have a rest day or two here. Only staying one night last time we missed the gorgeous village squares, the sculptures and the stunning gothic renaissance churches. 




Viana is famed for its gold filigree work and it's in abundance in many of the churches which really act as museums to superb artists and craftsmanship over the centuries.


The city is festooned with flowers to celebrate May and spring and the garden beds are fit to burst in the squares, it's gorgeous.




Viana has the unique combination of the river, the sea and the mountains. So naturally the river and port required a visit. 


Lots of mullet in the marina and a good sized fishing fleet.


Viana had a shipbuilding history and the Gil Eanes Hospital Ship tied up at the wharf is now a museum. Originally built in Viana to support the cod fishing industry it's now a top tourist attraction.


The Monument to the 25th of April or  Statue of Liberty, is tribute  to the people of Viana do Castelo  who fought for freedom in the carnation revolution of 1974.


It's pretty impressive, zoom in and you may be able to make out the 40 water jets  in front that represent the 40 parishes of Viana and the chains under the arch. The chains symbolise the lack of freedom that existed before the revolution.







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