Follow the yellow arrows

Esposende to Viana do Costelo
Distance: 24ks
Other peregrinos: 3
Weather: rain , some sun, overcast

After a lot of walking in the rain yesterday we were watching the weather forecasts but we woke to cloudy skies and a forecast for rain and thunderstorms.

 So three options, spend another day in Esposende, take the bus or tough it out and walk to Viano do Costela

So we set off with it spitting lightly as we hit the trail. Had to watch carefully for the yellow arrows, they paint on footpaths, gas meters, power poles or any thing really, see the pics below.

We meant to follow the coastal path but in the driving rain we ended up taking the inland route which took us through pretty little villages and woods that we wouldn't have seen on the coastal path. The inland route reminded me of our previous Camino walking in the North of Spain. Only six other peregrinos on the trail today. The sun came out for a while and it was good walking through the woods.  

Beautiful old churches and little votives with fresh flowers are dotted along the way.   Just as we were coming into Viana do Costello it chucked it down one last time.  Straight into the hotel and a hot bath.......bliss at the end of a long day.  After a relaxing  soak in the tub out for dinner and definitely a wine, I think we have earned it!

Rain, rain go away....

Saturday 7th May         Vila do Conde to Esposende
Distance: 22ks
Other  Peregrinos: 12 approx
Weather: Rain, rain, rain

More rain today. We set off in light showers but the sky looked really dark over our shoulders. We got a wiggle on to get as far ahead as possible and made the most of the raised boardwalks alongside the coast, easy comfortable walking.  Lots of people out rock hopping and octopus hunting. The coast line has a beautiful sandy beach and then rocky shore coves....no wonder the fish in the markets look so frsh.

This area is famous for its salted cod and you see it everywhere. Last night we had bacalhau for dinner and it was delicious. Not as salty and you would imagine and the fish is almost a thick meaty texture....cooked beautifully.  

The sailors have had their share of tragedies on this Atlantic coast. As we walked out of Povoa de Vazim there was a beautiful mural depicting a sailing tragedy and honoring all those lost at sea...very moving.

Friday 6th May            Perafita to Vila do Conde

Distance : 16ks

Other Peregrinos: 2

Weather: Misty, rainy

Overcast and light showers as we walked along the coast. Whilst beautiful scenery in the grey misty colors, you could just see this coast would be absolutely stunning on a bright sparkly day.  Lots of historic old churches, ancient Roman stone salting pits for salting and preserving fish for long sea voyages....they are still salting fish today!  We passed by a small fishing fleet, very traditional old style boats, crab pots and all the family involved in winching the boats down to the sea. We watched a boat come in, having to time the run in between the waves and jagged rocks, they winched the boat up to the top of the beach and straight away the cat jumped onboard and was ready and waiting for the fish scraps and mum and the kids all there to help out.

Stayed at Vila do Conde which on a lovely day would be stunning. As you cross the river you see a tiny circular chapel built in 1605 with clearly Moorish influnece and then around the corner is an old Roman aquaduct that transported water from the hills to the ship builders down at the river mouth.

(Remember click on the photo to enlarge it :) )

Bon Camino!

Matasinhos to Perafita
Distance: 8ks (full walk from Porto town through the burbs is 18k)
Other peregrinos: 2   but about 12 seen all day
Weather: light drizzle


We set off this morning in a light drizzle, still and warm, so t-shirts under our rain ponchos were all we needed.

  Lovely walking beside the sea, the raised boardwalks are well maintained and there is a steady trickle of walkers, much less than the Camino Frances though.

Short walk today, the words of a wise  elderly Austrian gent we were walked over the Pyrenees with last time sprang to mind , 'small steps, long way'.

Matasinhos

Train to Porto and then little local Metro out to Matasinhos.

Matasinhos is a beach village and with the gorgeous weather everyone was out and about lolling on the sand, the young groovers looked  like they were all posing for photo shoots.....with selfie-stick in hand anything goes....the Portuguese pout has to be seen to be believed!  

Checked into our hotel, 3 mins from the beach and all was going well until we were shown our room downstairs....uh-oh. Hotel was full so we toughed it out....Metro rumbling past until 1am, a short interlude and then the Metro started at 5am....3 metres from our cellar wall. I had to not think about earthquakes. Oh and for good measure it was student graduation night so lots of stragglers singing on their way home in the early hours.  All part of the travel experience!

Forecast for the next few days looks like cooler weather which is great for our walking, not so great is the showers forecast. We shall cope with what the day brings. Looking forward to getting started.

Lisbon isn't all old town

Wandering about we came across a band of folk musicians, couldn't understand what they were singing about but it was certainly well received by the locals and was sung with gusto. Fab outfits on the chaps too!

There is some amazing art and architecture here to contrast the  historic old town beauty.

Train tomorrow to Porto and the day after we saddle up our backpacks and hit the trail. Jollificating and touristy shenanigan's will be replaced with daily walking in nature along the Portuguese coast...should be great.....as long as it's not too hot.

Lisbon from across the river

Just a short ferry ride across the Tagus provides a great view of Lisbon city and Golden Gate's sister bridge, the April 25th bridge (named changed  in 1974 after the revolution). 

We took a bus up to the Christian Rei  statue (1959) that was built in gratitude for sparing Portugal in WWII....no surprises the inspiration came from Rio.

A gentle stroll back down the hill and a wander through the rag tag port area to see the very last ever built Portuguese sailing ship.

It's getting hot by 11am each day now....we may have to start our Camino walking early each day or we will be baking with our packs on our backs.

All things nautical

Lisbon's maritime history is the stuff of legend and the waterfront has wonderful buildings and sculpture that reflects the importance of Port Lisboa.

We set out early via Tram 15  for Belem and the waterfront. The waterfront here is sprinkled with marina berths, bike paths, walking trails, out door gyms, parks, and restaurants and on May Day Sunday everyone was out making the most of the beautiful day.

The Belem Tower dates from 1515  and was a fort to guard the entrance to the harbour.  Legend goes that for many a Portuguese explorer this was their last sight of home.

The big red bridge made me think immediately of San Francisco harbour bridge with the sail boats scooting along.  Just across from Belem Tower is the Monastery of Jeronomias, 500 years old and commissioned to celebrate the discovery of the marine route to India in 1496.  The Order of St Jerome was dissolved in 1840 but until then the Order was dedicated to the comfort of sailors and praying for the King. It was abandoned, became a school and then an orphanage and finally recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Beautiful facade and gardens and the craftsmanship of the marble Carver's is breathtaking.

Then off further up the coast to Cascais by local train, 20 minutes and hey presto it's bucket and spade time. By now it was hot, hot, hot so time for lunch in a quiet spot. Lovely marine promenade, lots of family groups, local fishing fleets.....a great way to end May Day.