Thursday, 25 July 2019

Pontedeueme to Betanzos

A day of hills today and cloudy skies as we set off. I love seeing the little traditional old grain stores dotted about, many are no longer used but they are so in sympatico with the villages, love them.
 All the pilgrims on this road have a bit of encouragement, zoom in😊

 Lovely walking through forests and very old settlements.

 Most villages have a little water bath where ancient pilgrims would bath their tired feet and wash. This one was from the 1800's, so fantastic.

 Always like to see healthy grapevines.


 Wonderful old churches, all locked up.

 We arrived into Betanzos, hot and tired and ready for the washing, showering, food routine only to discover it's Galicia's annual holiday today, hence all the fireworks we heard as we were walking into town. Supermarkets all shut but managed to get water for tomorrow  from a petrol station. Restaurants open for dinner at 8.30 here, I'll be ready to eat the table leg by then 😊


Ferrol to Pontedeueme

We left the Grand Hotel de Ferrol early morning.  Ferrol is a gritty naval town. The harbour has a tiny entrance and as such makes a perfect place for building the naval fleet over the last couple of hundred years.


 Once out of the town the harbour views are pretty.


 We had a coffee stop in Pene after a small diversion from Casanova. Then on to the old  old town of Fene which was so old and traditional, I loved it. A lady was sitting in her doorway and I asked her if I could take her photo and she took her apron off and tidied her hair, a special photo.


 Lots of rural scences today, village life and farm animals.


 Always good to see the way markers ticking down. Many local villages embrace the Camino pilgrims with shells and yellow arrows showing the way.




 After a particularly stetp hill climb in the middle of nowhere there was a chair, an honesty box and two chilly bins with water, juice and beer, never has a beer tasted so good. This kind soul, or group of kind souls, had placed  these refreshments along the trail after the steep inclines and where it was miles from any services. Fantastico.


 After a long hot day of walking we made it to Pontedeueme, crossed the river and then a last hill climb to our hotel for the night. Ironically this was the steepest hill ratio of the day 😊. Washing, showers and food in that order and an early night.


Footnote: our hotel was cheap and cheerful, above a bar and quite basic. We had dinner for €9.00 which was wine, bread, salad, dessert and the best pan fried fish we have ever had.....thick fresh fillets, pan fried....delicious. All the bar, hotel and cooking done by one guy... wonderful and he even put on a breakfast for us for €5.00 before we hit the trail.

Oviedo to Ferrol

Tuesday 23 July 2019

Another early start as we take the slow two gauge train accross the coast to Ferrol to start the Camino Ingles as planned.


 Lots of stunning scenery rolled past the windows, rural towns, deserted villages, tiny old railway stations and lovely coastal views.











87 train stations later we made it to Ferrol

Commilas to San Vicente de la Baquerra

Monday 22 July 2019

Up at first light to leave the charms of old town Comillas behind. We have had a lovely rest day here but the trail is calling.


Beautiful scenery as we walk inland for a short time before following the coast.

Lovely estuaries and clean rivers and so still and quiet.



Stunning coastline with lots of little surf camps dotted along the way. Lots of happy families enjoying the summer hols.


San Vicente de la Baquerra is a chocolate box town, beautiful arched bridge over the river, a castle and the ancient cathedral Santa Maria de los Angeles, a 12th century church which has just incredible.

Interesting graffiti.

Lovely views from the cathedral up the river.









A stunning spot.

Sunday, 21 July 2019

Santander to Comillas

Comillas is a quaint old town that once was a bit of a sleepy fishing village. Now it's been discovered by history and art buffs and beach lovers alike. It's summer and the place is buzzing.

 We stumbled upon a traditional wedding in the plaza chapel.

 Beach time a  necessity in this heat.

 Lots of gorgeous old town cobbled streets to explore and a peek into plaza chapel, beautiful.

 On the hill above the town is the iconic University, no time to visit but check out the design, zoom in 😊

 We did get to visit Palacio de Sobrellano.

 The photos can't truly show the grandeur, the detail of the handpainted wall panels and the incredible parquet flooring panels.....  I could go on and on...the photos a but a wee taster of this incredible museum of art and design.










Then right next door is the Capilla Panteon, another stunner. The stained glass  was so vivid yet it's a couple of hundred years old, beautiful.







Comillas keeps on giving with the fabulous Antonio Gaudi folly El Capricho de Gaudi right next door to the Chapel.




 A lovely stroll to the port to end a cracking  day in Commilas.