To the glacier land

 10 January 2024

We left Westport early and thought we'd have breakfast long the way.  Easy driving with spectacular views as we set off down the West Coast.

 Lots of little one lane bridges and the most gorgeous forest right down to the roads edge. 

The coastline drive is spectacular with the beach on one side and fantastic limestone cliffs on the other and in-between this strip of lush Nikau forest.  Beautiful.

                                                        

                                                                    

Stopping at the Punkaiki pancake rocks was compulsory and it was the perfect day to clamber around the neat little walking track amongst the rock formations. The sea was 'as flat as a pancake' to match the setting.   

The Kereru were feasting on the tree top fruits and not at all shy of visitors to their territory.

We said farewell to the stunning Nikau forest. Onwards to Hokitika - famous for its greenstone, whitebait and mining history.  Our breakfast spot on the coast was Greymouth and we stocked up on petrol and supermarket supplies before we made our way to Hokitika. 

We saw a small pod of Hectors dolphins just cruising along the coastline behind the driftwood Hokitika sign.  What a stunning place to take a rest break.   We found the fabulous old Catholic cathedral however  due to earthquake strengthening requirements  it's closed to all visitors. The stone work and masonry are superb, I hope they manage to save the building somehow.                           

On to Ross, once the richest alluvial goldfield in the south island. It's a quaint wee stopover spot now with the locals making the most of the gold field revival interest.  

Onwards towards Haast with a short stop at Okarito lagoon - New Zealands largest unmodified wetland and home to the white heron. The entire area covers about 12k of wetland and as we arrived the cloud cover and mist rolled in so not much bird watching to be had.  Still a very picturesque spot to stretch our legs.

The weather changed as we went further towards the glacier county of Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers.  The wide braided river beds were stunning silver colour against the icy blue melt waters.

Cape Foulwind & Granity

 

The forecast looked good for getting some walks in today. We started with the Kawatiri River Trail and boardwalk - so pretty. This walking and cycling trail connects all the little settlements along the coast, about 55k's of track and all maintained by marvellous volunteers. We just dipped our toes on the track with the small section we did today. 

We set off with overcast skies but it was warm and very still. The Talley's fish processing plant near the river /  harbour entrance was busy, busy, busy and you could certainly smell eau de poisson.  As with most little fishing marinas there's always a boat or two that has seen better days.  

We walked to the Lost Lagoon Bridge and then on to the harbour bar entrance. 

There were lots of fisho's out today catching Gurnard in the river mouth and Snapper on the beach/sea side. The bar was calm with flat water and the sun was beginning to burn through the clouds. The brass plaques to all those who had lost their life crossing the bar were a sobering reminder at the end of the breakwater.  Today it was so calm that even the beach side surfer gals and guys were struggling for wave action. 

Time to cross the river by road bridge and head south to Cape Foulwind. No foul winds today, just glorious sunshine and cheeky Weka forraging for food and even taking a nibble out of our hands.  There were some terrific views from the lighthouse track, the cliffs looking weather battered and chalky. 

After Cape Foulwind we set off for Tauranga Bay and the little seal colony. The wind was distinctively wiffy here - there's a whole lot of seal action going on once you got your eye in. Lots of little seal pups struggling on the rocks under the watchful eye of their mummas.  Watching the adult seals surf into the rocky shore so elegantly and then lumber across the rocks to check on the pups was fantastic - you could spend hours watching this from viewing platforms which were all at a safe distance from the action. 

We noted  a theme in naming the towns on the West Coast so far - Westport - the port on the west coast, makes sense. Cape Foulwind named by Captain Cook because of the terrible weather they experienced when sailing along this coast.  Next stop Granity, named by gold prospectors  in reference to the large quantity of granite in the area.  Long known as a coal mining town, Granity is a shadow of its former self. 

The mining industry is on the decline and most of the little mining settlements now have the feel of ghost towns.  They do however have fantastic colour sense with their house painting. 

Westport architecture

 

Westport has fantastic buildings. Snapped a few pics on an after dinner stroll.

That's a wrap for today, more exploring tomorrow. 

To the West Coast

You can tell its summer holiday season when you see a family arrive at the motel with their boat and six bikes - zoom in to see some kiwi ingenuity at play... that's one way to adapt a boat trailer!  Gorgeous day for a slow drive across to Westport via Cable Bay and Nelson.   

We had to stop and admire an Argosy air freighter on the outskirts of  Renwick  - this one allegedly spotted UFO off the Kaikoura coast some years ago when it was running freight to the Chatham Islands. 

We left the dry Marlborough valley to head in land and start making our way to the West Coast. 

Onwards towards Cable Bay with a quick stop at the Pelorus Bridge - the sign warning off jumpers was very necessary as the water levels looked so low - yikes.

A short walk up some steps and you could admire the beauty of Cable Bay - where the original power cable connected the North and South Islands.  We were there at low tide so the estuary tide was out but on full tide the little causeway connects the mainland with Pippin Island. It's a magical spot and a beautiful day. 

Lunch in Nelson and a stop at the Nelson yacht club. So many holiday makers out enjoying the sunshine at Tahunanui beach and the boulder bank. 

Inland towards the west coast. We stopped at the top of Hope Saddle and the air had a lovely vanilla smell - the manuka was in full bloom and the little native honey bees where buzzing around - lovely.

Driving through the upper Buller Gorge is like driving in a green tunnel - the trees seem to cover the road and the foliage is beautiful Southern Beech with a soft delicate canopy.

Every so often you pop out of the green tunnel to be met by stunning glimpses of the Buller river with the odd fisherman spotted up stream. Crystal clear waters.

A few one lane bridges still on the go, Winston Peters needs to visit the South Island after he's finished the one lane bridges up north :) 

Little known fact that there was once a uranium mine in the area - we stopped at what was once the site of the uranium works - great spot, right on the river but it wasn't successful and went bust pretty quickly. The little cafe is for sale, it will be a hard sell.

The road workers back in the day did a brilliant job of carving the road into the side of the Buller Gorge - in places it's one lane only and is such a pretty drive but you have to keep your eyes on the road! 

In the gorge below is Uranium Point - I wasn't quick enough to snap a pic of the road sign. The mountains on either side of the gorge are Mt Cassin and Mt Jacobsen - named for the two prospectors who discovered radioactive material there. Fun fact was that they were issued with NZ's first commercial helicopter license in 1955.... there were great hopes for the Buller region and the West Coast but there wasn't enough to mine properly  and it all went belly up. Now hikers and fisho's can enjoy the gorgeous scenery. 

Westcoast update next time folks - a fun day driving today.