Bilboa to Pobena, our Camino calls

After a terrific day and a half in Bilbao it was time to saddle up our packs and get walking towards Santiago de Compostela. We set off on a beautiful morning for Portugalete.

To get to Portugalete we had to take the gondo lift from one side of the river to the other. There is a little ferry boat that goes back and forth but the gondo lift takes cars and motorbikes. It's fantastic. Unique. Allegedly Gustav Eiffel had a hand in the design😗. It's pretty terrific, it allows big ships to come up river but maintains the connection between riverbanks.

Lovely day for walking, clear blue skies and a well earned cafe stop at Las Arenas.

We  got to Pobena early and what a relief to take the hiking shoes off and feel fresh air.

No swim today but definitely one tomorrow. We had a great day, menu del dia in a local bar for dinner and the real highlight was hearing a group of local men singing traditional Basque songs together. They were just lovely, all ages, shapes and sizes bonded in their enjoyment of singing together. A real treat.

Bilbao on a hot summer day

11,997 steps today had us traversing the old town and city of Bilbao. Such a cool little city, packed with history and then there's the Guggenheim effect, still a stunner and takes your breath away inside and out.

 In direct contrast is the beautiful Cathedral. The craftsmanship of the stone masonry and the architectural design was beautiful. So peaceful.

Plentzia, a wee gem

We were on the early bus to Bilboa so one last walk along the Gijon seafront was a must. Such a pretty little town.

 We enjoyed sitting in the plaza watching everyone promenade and there was a delightful band playing with dancing. The Spanish do relaxed very well.

What a wee gem Plentzia is. After sitting on a bus for 5 hours it was fantastic to stroll long a little river and quaint seafront.

 If you are going to Bilboa, stay here. It's the last stop on a metro line so it's only 38minutes into town and it's beautiful.

There is a lovely old town, a sheltered harbour and quaint little cafes and restaurants. Lots of people commute into the city and live here, wise folks.

They also make the best paella.

Gijon

Gijon is the capital of the Asturias region. It has a population of around 270,000 citizens and a million dogs. Seriously most people live in flats in apartment blocks with no gardens yet they all have dogs. Not just little dogs either. Luckily the city has  lovely parks, plazas and of course the beaches and marine coastal parks.  Just watch where you walk, there are doggie landmines everywhere.

It's interesting to see the apartment dwellers all walking down to the beach on Saturday morning with beach chairs and rugs and picnics...and their dogs of course 😊. Every doorway, lamppost, marble block in a dog leg-cocking height is stained by 20 years of dog pee, it stinks and is so ugly.  Ok moan over. 

There is a lovely family feel, everyone having fun, no aggro and the people are so friendly and welcoming. The little  beach tents  for changing in are pretty cute and it is great to see everyone out walking the bays and on the coastal cycle track. It's a beautiful coastal area. 

The church of San Pedro is an iconic building at one end of San Lorenzo playa (beach).

 

Gijon has been occupied since 5th century BC. It's had Visigoths, Romans, French, Moor's and Portuguese as occupiers and Franco's army set up here. The old town is an interesting historic mix of architectural design. Check out the Octavio Augustus sculpture below, it's fantastic.

It's pleasant to wander the old town and admire the various building styles. Even those  that are looking shabby and derelict still have a charm.  

We found the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, known to locals as La Iglesiona.

This is one incredible Basilica, all stone outside and pretty plain but step inside and you are wowed. The artwork was completed by two brothers and it is referred to as the Sistine Chapel of Asturias. The paintings, sculpture, icons and artwork are incredible. Hard to believe during the civil war it was used as a prison by the Republicans. 

 The coastal track is a pleasant easy walk and it's dotted with sculptures along the way.

My favorite was the Mother of Emigrants, mourning sons and daughters that had set out to new lands for better lives.

The stainless steel knot demonstrates unity and connection.

 You can follow the path as far as the eye can see. There are lovely picnic spots to rest and you can take a swim along the way.

Hasta Luego A Coruna

We farewell A Coruna on a brilliantly sunny day. The domes of Maria Pita square were shimmering in the sunshine.

We loved our visit to the fine arts musem. The photos on my wee camera phone don't do it justice, the art works were spectacular. The Goya etchings were incredible, highlighting the misery of war, the tragedy of bullfighting and a set of satirical, ghoulish fantasy secenes, like nothing I've ever seen before.

The portrait gallery had works from the 16/17/18th centuries, they were wonderful. Enormous great canvases telling the story of Spanish life over time. You could spend all day here. The miniatures were so gorgeous and delicate and the settings were beautiful.

Lots of modern art and sculpture too.

We managed to snuffle out the Royal Nautical Club on the Marina, very nice. G&T anyone?

Farewell A Coruna and your delicious  pulpo. We have enjoyed this fantastic, historic fishing port, Maria Pita and her rallying cry to save the town will be a strong memory. We are now bound for Gijon and time to explore Asturias territory and of course sample their famous cidar. 

Hasta Luego A Coruna.